Pequod’s Pizza: As Good as They Say?

Pizza: a topic of much tension in the States. 

I tried a deep dish in London once. It was horrifying. The cheese was so thick (and I assume bad quality), it started going cold and solid when it was halfway down my throat, slightly choking me with every bite. It was borderline traumatic, but I still dreamed of experiencing a proper one. I reasoned that if the classic Chicago Town frozen delights of my childhood were anything to go off, deep-dish pizzas were definitely for me. I still stand by the fact that those pizzas are elite, by the way, and I’d back them in a fight against any other frozen offering. Whether that’s the nostalgia talking, who knows. 

Anyway, back to Chicago. Pequod’s was in the Bear. Pequod’s was in almost every ‘Top Deep Dish Pizza’ lineup I found online. Pequod’s was round the corner from my cousin’s apartment. It seemed that a visit to Pequod’s was written in the stars. 

Unlike the other city institutions I’ve visited (Katz’s, Russ & Daughters), it didn’t necessarily have the ‘presence’ you’d expect from a pizza place with its reputation. Dimly lit, high booths, neon signs filling the walls, hockey jerseys hung up with pride; it’s a sports bar at first glance. But the unmistakable smell of freshly cooked pizza greeted us as we walked through the door and I knew we were in the right place. 

I discovered that technically, Pequod’s isn’t Chicago-style deep dish. It’s a pan-style pizza that features a fluffier dough, plus it’s topped with cheese rather than sauce.

Upon ordering, they warn the pizza takes 45 mins to arrive, which sounds like a lifetime when you’re hungry (it was quicker… I think they just try to manage your expectations). We got half pepperoni and half with other toppings (olives, onions). When it arrived at the table, fresh out the oven and still in the pan, it was as huge as I expected. They recommend two slices per person, which I would agree with depending how hungry you are, but these aren’t your usual pizza slices. They are huge slabs of bread and cheese, taking up the whole plate, demanding your attention and all the space your stomach has to offer. The server cut the pizza up for us, treating the table to a view of the signature cheese pull — the stuff of viral video dreams. And that first bite. Wow.  A sturdy base holds its own when you lift it, an impressive feat considering the weight of the toppings, but I’d still recommend you take on the challenge with a knife and fork. That thin, crispy crust gives way to a layer of soft, spongy pizza dough on top; a pillow of bread, covered with a perfectly rich tomato sauce that had none of the off-putting acidity that some bring. There was the perfect amount of mozzarella, too: don’t let the cheese pull fool you into thinking it’s overdone with the stuff. The ratio was heavy, but it’s perfect and every bite holds the ideal balance of bread, cheese, tomato and topping. And that caramelised crust. It might look burnt, but somehow there’s no bitterness. It’s just pure, heavenly crunch and texture. Side note: after trying both sides, the other toppings aren’t necessary, in my opinion. I’d just get classic pepperoni next time.

I’d like finish on a controversial note and say something that’s likely blasphemous. Chicago Town pizzas did a good job. It’s not the freshly cooked, well-thought out dream that Pequod’s was, but it had (has?) all the addictive elements and was definitely a gateway drug into the world of the deep dish. 

So if you’re in the area, do yourself a favour and give Pequod’s a try.