Order Like a Pro, Persian Style
I don’t know much. But after 10 years working in my family’s Persian restaurant and 27 years being half Persian, I know a good meal order at an Iranian restaurant.
When people think of Persian food, they often think of plates piled high with kebabs, served with steaming saffron rice. And yes, this is accurate and necessary. But there are also unsung heroes that I think are too often overlooked. We’ve got the starters, an array of dips that have it all: smokiness, sweetness, creaminess. The beautiful freshly baked bread in all its variations. The khoreshts that are so unique in flavour, from herb-heavy favourites to sweet and sour stars. There’s so much to enjoy. And as a side note, in most restaurants (it varies depending on recipe) there are plenty of options for veggies and vegans too.
This is a list based on the menu at Hafez Restaurant, but it includes dishes that I assume the majority of traditional Persian restaurants will serve. It is by no means exhaustive, but I think it’s a solid introduction to the wonderful world of Persian food. They’re in order of importance, so take notes, head to your nearest restaurant and dig in. Noosh-e Jan.
My only request: any Iranians reading this, please do not shout at me. If you disagree, send me a kindly worded email and we can discuss.
STARTERS
My favourite part (am I allowed to say that?). These are best shared, scooped up and piled onto warm, torn pieces of freshly baked bread.
Kashk-e bademjan
Surprisingly for such a distinctly flavoured dish, I’ve never met anyone who dislikes this starter. Kashk means yogurt whey, whilst bademjan means aubergine and the dish is a combo of the two. Aubergines are browned, peeled, cooked and then mashed with spices, garlic and saffron, topped with kashk and served.
Mirza ghasemi
Mirza ghasemi is rich, smoky, tomatoey and creamy all at once. It’s another aubergine dish, but it’s so unique from kashk-e bademjan that it deserves a place on the table alongside it. The aubergines are charred over an open flame, creating the signature smoky flavour, then the flesh is mashed with onions, garlic, and tomatoes.
Salad olivieh
This is essentially a hybrid Persian/Russian potato salad and it is so, so good. It offers a welcome flavour change from the deep richness of the aubergine dishes – it’s got potatoes and chicken, complete with creaminess of the mayo plus crunch and tang from gherkins.
Mast-o khiar/mousir (v)
Yogurt with chopped cucumber (khiar) or shallots (mousir). Top tip: save some to accompany your kebab.
Bread
And plenty of it. Different restaurants will serve variations on Persian bread. There’s lavash, a lightweight, thin bread that’s baked in a tanoor, a clay oven. There’s sangak, Iran’s national bread, which is often baked in a dome oven with a surface covered in pebbles. Barbari, a long oval-shaped bread with a delicate, airy texture complete with a crust. Taftoon, a popular thinner bread. And so many more.
MEAT
Mixed Grill
I’m a strong believer in ordering a mixed grill to share when you’re first trying the cuisine. On your third or fourth visit, once you’re well equipped with what’s on offer, you’ll probably want to get your own plate but for the first couple of times I think it’s more fun this way – you’ll get to try a bit of everything. It usually consists of kubideh, chicken, lamb chops, so it’s a good variety. Just don’t get territorial over the last bit of kebab.
Kubideh
This is what a lot of people think of when they think of Persian food. Kubideh is ground lamb with minced onion, formed onto skewers. It sounds simple, but the meat, onion and spices are a harmony of flavours, all combined in one wonderfully juicy kebab. The quality can vastly vary across restaurants; some are bulked up, using breadcrumbs or bicarb of soda for an extra impressive look (and maximum profit), but this obviously compromises on flavour and quality. If you go to a good restaurant, you’ll be in safe hands as this is often the bread and butter of Persian restaurants – it should be juicy and flavour-packed. NEVER dry. If you’ve ever heard someone say ‘Chelo kebab’, kubideh is often what they’re referring to – it means rice (chelo) with kebab (obviously).
Jujeh
Jujeh kebab is grilled chicken, and it’s a staple on every menu. Marinades vary but often it’s saffron, lime, spice, yoghurt. It’s subtle but delicious, relying on the tenderness of the chicken and not requiring any overpowering flavour.
Chenjeh
Only get this if you’re confident about the quality of meat that’s on offer. Good chenjeh is melt-in-the-mouth tender, the perfect amount of bite, fatty enough for flavour but not overwhelmingly so. It’s also known as ‘king’s cut’, so if you want to literally eat like a king, this is your dish.
Soltani
This is the perfect duo: one skewer of kubideh, one skewer of barg. Barg is a tender, thin kebab that consists of butterflied meat, tenderised with the edge of a knife, then marinated. There’s something about the pairing of the upscale, delicate barg and hearty kubideh that you just can’t beat.
KHORESHT (STEW)
Khoresht is the Persian word for a stew. Packed with flavour, slow cooked, often available vegan/veggie or with meat, you can enjoy them as the main event or as an element on the table to have alongside your kebabs.
Traditional: Ghormeh Sabzi
If you’ve ever talked food with a Persian, chances are they’ve mentioned ghormeh sabzi. It’s often referred to as the national dish, and everyone thinks their mum makes it best. The flavour is intense – defined by fenugreek, with dried limes for sourness, (an obscene amount of) sautéed fresh herbs, kidney beans and lamb, though it can also be veggie. I’ve found it’s like marmite for non-Persians. People are either immediately obsessed or completely baffled by it. Either way, it’s only right you order it and decide for yourself.
Favourite: Fesenjan
Fesenjan is the restaurant’s sweetheart. I’ve never met someone who doesn’t like it. Ground toasted walnuts are the base, with pomegranate molasses, plenty of spices and meat, all slow-cooked and simmered together for a sweet, sour, rich flavour.
TIPS
Rice with a side of salad shirazi. If the restaurant offers half and half, take it.
Butter - mix it into the rice. I can’t explain how much it levels your meal up. That creamy, salty richness is unrivalled.
Egg yolk – If you’re feeling adventurous, order a raw egg yolk and mix that in as soon as the rice is served, whilst it’s hot. This is what all the old school diners do and it adds a beautiful richness.
Tahdig - The part of the rice from the bottom of the pan, golden and crunchy. This is the bit that everyone wants.
Spoon - it shocked me to learn a lot of people don’t eat rice with a spoon. Please do if it’s not the norm for you.
WHAT NOT TO ORDER
Chips
Look, I don’t judge (well clearly I do, but anyway). You can get chips everywhere, and chances are they’re not going to be fantastic at a Persian restaurant. So ideally skip them. Minus 10000 points if you order chips and have them with ketchup… sorry, I don’t make the rules.
Hummus
Hummus is incredible. I could eat it every day. But it’s not Persian, and when there are SO many starters to choose from, it seems like a waste of table space.
Baba ghanoush
Again, I’m a big fan. But Persians know how to do an aubergine dip – kashk-e bademjan and mirza ghasemi are seriously something special, and they’re not readily available outside of Iranian restaurants. Baba ghanoush is.
